Dorćol, our neighbourhood
We won’t try to hide it – we are very proud to be located here in the heart of Belgrade’s downtown in a cozy and vibrant neighbourhood, Dorćol. Dorćol means crossroads, and it is truly a colourful crossroad of different cultural, historical and social perspectives of the city. This little orientation guide is a very personal and local one, to show tribute and celebrate small businesses that often survive only on love and enthusiasm. This is a tour through the old Dorćol captured through our eyes.
Luna Park in Kalemegdan
Kalemegdan’s Luna Park is the longest lasting one in Belgrade, it’s been there ever since 1958. Six years later arrived panoramic wheel or simply panorama that, until today, remains a favourite attractions in this truly authentic vintage amusement park.
Bajloni farmers market
Across from Yugodom is the amazing Bajloni farmers market, here for almost 100 years. At Bajloni you can find fresh (often organic) fruits, vegetables, eggs, dairy milk products, meat, flowers…and sometimes even some cool vintage flea market finds. It is open every day from 7am until 4pm, in summer even longer.
Bread like no other
In a tiny street, right behind Bajloni farmers market, there are inconspicuous green framed glass doors. The sign is a red tent above the doors on which is written “ПЕКАРА” in white. Here you can find one true hidden gem that many locals who are not from the neighbourhood do not know about. It’s been there for about 80 years and it’s still keeps the same recipe of making bread and they only have 1 product, in 2 sizes – old school bread called somun or lepinja. Bread so good that can easily be eaten on its own. No preservatives, no additives, no artificial colouring… even the oven where it’s made is not electric but powered by wood. The joy of getting a piece of hot bread there, the softness, the smell and the taste can’t be described – must be experienced!
Pekara; Đorđa Jovanovića 7; Tue-Sun 7-13.
Eclectic vintage store
There are quite a few antique shops around the area but only one sells true vintage finds including the mid-century modern and the ones from Yugoslavia. Also kilims, porcelain, tools… so much different stuff – this place is loaded! It’s curated by it’s owner, who makes a unique selection of cool and rare vintage finds. Orhan Pamuk and Debbie Harry were some of the costumers.
DUB; Zetska 13; Mon-Fri 11-18 Mon-Fri, Sat 11-15.
Umbrella shop
This is the very last place in Belgrade that still repairs umbrellas. One really cool thing is that they also sell vintage umbrellas that had been fully refurbished. Another interesting fact about this place is that if it rains and you pass by without an umbrella they might hand you one of theirs.
Kišobrani; Višnjićeva 6; Mon-Fri 10-19.
Old school cakes
This is a classic Belgrade cake and ice cream shop. Here you’ll find an authentic vintage interior and authentic old recipes, and even the ladies who work there are dressed and have a Yugoslav old school attitude. If you are into super sweet, ultra sugary stuff then this is the place. Lemonade and Kadaif (local version of Kanafeh) are recommendations! For experimenting try Boza, a fermented drink made of malt, sugar and yeast.
Poslastičarnica; Cara Dušana 34; Mon-Sun 10-22.
Perfumery that smells Yugoslav
Being the very last surviving perfumery workshop in the city instantly makes this place unique. And then there’s its owner. Mr. Jovanov, a true gentleman of old days that makes visiting to his workshop and store a true experience. He inherited the business from his parents and even though he is already retired and barely makes enough money to cover the cost of running shop he still does it because he just loves it and couldn’t live without it. Recommendations for perfumes are Beogradska noć 1 (Belgrade night 1), available in women’s in perfume and men’s cologne.
Parfimerija Sava; Kralja Petra 75; Mon-Fri 10-13 & 16-19, Sat 10-14.